Sunday, May 25, 2008

Welcome to Africa



So had I done a little more research before I planned this trip, I may have gone to India when it was cooler and Cape Town when it was warmer. But what can you do?

I had a mini-case of culture shock leaving India. Even being in the London airport felt strange. But once I arrived in Cape Town, I felt at ease. It was a beautiful sunny day and the city looked gorgeous. I stayed at a lovely backpackers (Cape Town Backpackers) with helpful staff and friendly travelers. Cape Town was so lovely I stayed 2 weeks before starting to work on my purpose in Africa.

I came to Africa with the intention of volunteering with kids and sports. However, given that I came up with that plan a year ago, it's changed a little. I still want to volunteer but I've broadened the scope to also working with marine life. I've always loved dolphins (as some of you know since I forced you to watch the video of me swimming with the dolphins in Mexico) and when I was little I wanted to be a marine biologist when I grew up. So I thought I'd give it a try.

Since the weather was cold and cloudy in Cape Town, I flew to Mozambique. I met a guy in the airport heading to Barra, so I decided to tag along. I spent the first week there, which may be the prettiest beach I've ever seen. Big palm trees, soft sand, a wide beach and crystal clear water. There I did my PADI advanced open water diver certification so I could dive deeper (to 100 feet). It was amazing. I saw a white tipped reef shark, huge manta rays, devil rays, long eels, nemos, and tons of colorful fish. It was magical.

I met great people diving as well. It's so refreshing to hang out with people who are living their dreams as SCUBA instructors. I also met some great travelers. Marcus, Sean and Natasha are on their way around they world. Now they're touring southern Africa in their decked out 4X4. It was awesome. I hitched a ride with them to Maputo and got to sleep in the tent on their roof! There was even a fridge in the back of the truck and their GPS knows all the dirt roads in the tiniest of villages.

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Mamma Mia

So my mom set the stage for our time together but she didn't tell you what a good sport she was. Mom hadn't been there 24 hours when I took her to catch our train at the New Delhi train station. And even though it's called New Delhi train station, there ain't nothing new about it. There are 1 billion people in India and I think half of them were at the train station that day, along with an equal number of rats. People sleeping, people living at the train station, people peeing, people begging, people yelling, people waiting every where. So we get on our 1st class A/C sleeper with another family and off we go. We were on our way to visit relatives of family friends, Anjali and Saleem, in a small town (in India that means a population of half a million people) called Basti. We were so excited to meet them and for a true Indian experience.

We wake up later with a strange man in our cabin but that's not unusual. Then we hear the news that there was a derailment in front of us just before Basti. We had to wait until it cleared. And wait and wait and wait. We waited on the train with no opening windows, no water, no food for 9 hours in 107 degree heat. It was like a sauna. We had to ask our cabin mates for their Fanta and Mom made me ration it. Finally the train started moving, but not towards Basti. It was being re-routed. We were instructed to get off at the next stop and wait for a ride to Basti. So we did. I was dying of thirst and hunger so I made my mom walk across the dirt road to the truck stop sheds. It took 3 sheds before I found "cold" water and chips. Spicy chips never tasted so good.

We were so happy to see our ride to Basti! They greeted us with a helping hand, cool car and cold drinks. When we arrived in Basti, Saleem welcomed us with the warmest welcome. He had cold lassis and sweets waiting for us, followed by a huge lunch of specially prepared non-spicy Indian food. I didn't know it existed! The meal was delicious, and I didn't shed any tears from spiciness.

Saleem and Anjali are both doctors. They work around the clock taking care of their patients who stay at the hospital on the 1st floor of their house. We took a tour of the hospital and met patients recovering from surgery, illness and deliveries. It is incredible all the hard work that they have both done and the special attention they give their patients.

My mom and I had a fabulous time with Anjali and Saleem. We had massages, got full mendi (henna) done, and saw several Indian weddings with grooms entering on camels, horses and elephants. Saleem even has a vintage American car, which we got to ride in. And it a visit wouldn't be complete without a Hindi dance party in one of the staff's homes.

We wished we had more time in Basti. Saleem and Anjali welcomed us right into their home and showed us a true Indian experience. If they ever get tired of being doctors, they should have a bed and breakfast!









On the way home, we were only delayed 7 hours on the train, but we had A/C, food and water the whole trip. After the grueling train rides, we treated our selves to a luxury hotel and it was fabulous. We were definitely in need of a swim, being that it was extremely hot. However, we didn't have our swimsuits with us. So we went to buy some. The first ones we found looked like figure skating outfits with a skirt over bikers and puffy sleeves. We were so desperate to swim that we bought them anyway.

Mom and I spent the rest of our days touring Delhi and napping. It was so hot we'd see one site and go for a nap. Then see another followed by another nap. And of course we saw the Taj Mahal, in all it's glory. I had an incredible time with my mom. She took all the glitches in stride. Thanks for coming!

Monday, May 5, 2008

adios India

I'm not quite sure how to sum up this trip. It will probably take some time to process and I'm sure once I return home, I'll realize even more things about India, the States and myself.

I think after South America, I said I really liked traveling alone. Well, now I really hate traveling alone, and I'm not sure I ever want to do it again. Yes, I realize I still have 3 months to go.

India is the land of extremes. I met amazing people with big hearts. I received warm welcomes all over India. I've been to at least 15 cities in 3 months. I've learned about religions, arranged marriages, people, culture, food, languages and tons more. Even after 3 months, I'm still amazed by India. Seriously every time I leave my hotel room, it's an adventure.

My purpose here was to study yoga and meditation, and I'd say mission accomplished and so much more that I never could have imagined. Cate and I did yoga nearly everyday. I got a personalized yoga practice from the Krishnamachara Yoga Mandrim, the yoga I studied in Atlanta. And I learned Cate's yoga practice also. I did some crazy meditations at OSHO (shaking for 15 minutes, screaming for 15 minutes, dancing for 15 minutes and finally sitting for 15 minutes), and some more traditional but intense meditations at the vipassana meditation course (no talking for 10 days, just sitting and meditating for 12 hours a day). That's probably the most intense I'll ever do. I'm actually happy my original plan to work in an ashram didn't work out. I got to learn about and experience India and it's culture and I made a life-long friend, Cate. Even if a new friend was all I gained from traveling to India, it was worth it. It's rare that you make such a close friend and are able to share such a wild and crazy experience in a foreign country together. And with my mom too! My mom and I made awesome travel buddies (well I shouldn't speak for her). Despite the many glitches we encountered, culture shock and jet lag, my mom rolled with the punches and we laughed through it all. It's rare I get so much individual time with someone, especially as cool as my mom. I just feel really blessed and lucky. Thanks, Mom!

So it's with a bittersweet goodbye to India that I embark on the next adventure in Africa, with no plan at all but with renewed trust in God that it will work out for the best.