Summer sets in

Ammedabad is basically a desert and Cate's apartment a sauna. It was a one bedroom apartment shared by 3 people with only 1 small fan. We had to move the fan around from room to room and all stay together in the same room. When you opened the bathroom, you walked into a swarm of mosquitoes, biting your rear-end as you peed. Even though the apartment wasn't much cooler than outside, at least we could lay down. Every afternoon we'd come home and take a sweaty nap. One night we treated ourselves to dinner in an AC restaurant. There was a section on the menu called Sizzler the Dizzler, so of course we had to order it. It had everything and the kitchen sink in it: French fries, tomato sauce, spaghetti, a stuffed bell pepper, vegetables and other unidentifiable foods. It actually tasted pretty good but it didn't feel too good coming out... Next stop Rishikesh.

Wild asses

Ammedabad experienced religious riots in 2002. It is still trying to recover. Cate had a peace-building internship here with SAMERTH, so I came along to see what was going on. SAMERTH also has a field office in Kutch, which is out in the desert. After touring their facilities and finding out about the birth control available, we went to the wildlife sanctuary to chase wild asses. Once we'd catch up to a wild ass (going 30-40 miles/hour) Cate's boss would stick his head out the window and scream at it. I was just holding on for dear life in the back seat of the car. The desert was amazing. I've never seen mirages like the ones there. The ground was completely dried up and cracking. And there were no landmarks to indicate which direction you came from or how to get back.

Layover in Delhi

Easter Day fell at the same time as a Muslim holiday and a Hindu holiday. Cate and I wanted to celebrate by spending the day in a nice park. I had my doubts about finding such a thing in India but low and behold we found the perfect place. It was gorgeous and even had a little cafe. Cate stumbled on the biggest beat stick ever. I think the normal beat sticks are used by the park workers to break up couples making out. We tried to have a photo shoot with a young couple and the beat stick but they weren't going for it! Then we found an abandoned wheelbarrow. And as if we didn't have enough fun pushing each other around, a near by woman actually wanted to join in!

Kashmir

Kashmir was incredible. The hospitality there rivaled that of the south. I flew up to Srinagar to meet Cate and stay with her friend from school, Suhail, and his family. I was welcomed with salty Kashmiri tea (nun chai) and 4 types of breads, all equally delicious. After stuffing my face and making short videos with the cousins, it was time to eat again. This time 5 different kinds of mutton, 1 chicken dish and piles upon piles of rice. Half way through dinner I didn't think I could get anymore in, but each family member stopped by Cate's and my dinner area to cheer us on until we had finished our plates, and I mean spotlessly finished our plates. I thought my ears would turn into kebabs. Luckily I survived the night to wake up for more tea and biscuits at breakfast. It was the same warm welcoming at 4 different aunt's houses over the next week. Good thing the Indian pants are big with a drawstring.












I even got to wrestle on of the aunts.










Suhail's family is fabulous. I learned so much about Kashmir and Islam.












I learned some Kashmiri and how to make chai.














And of course we saw the sights...beautiful Palogum and Lake Dal.

Tiruvannamalai (don't ask me to pronounce it)

So after the bus run around on the way to Kanchipuram, I was determined to get it right this time. But seeing as I still have no idea how to pronounce this town's name, it was a bit difficult. As I got on the bus, I was so proud that it was so easy this time. Then as we pull out of the station and the ticket collector comes for my money, he tells me I'm on the wrong bus, but for the life of me, I can't tone down the American accent enough to be understood. Finally the people in the next rows start helping me. The ticket collector lets me know where to get off for the right bus. After I get off the bus and it's pulling away, everyone is hanging out the window telling the people on the street which bus to put me on. People are extremely helpful here. You know that expression, "do everything as if the whole world is watching"? Sometimes in India I feel like the whole world really is watching, staring, thinking what will this 28 year old American woman with no husband or kids do next?

Tiruvannamalai was pretty uneventful. I saw the huge temple there honoring Shiva, a Hindu god. Then I climbed half way up the holy mountain. Apparently you're supposed to start the trek at 6 a.m. and since I started at 10:30 it was too hot to make it all the way up. But I did make it to the cave where one of the famous gurus meditated for 17 years. The cave was nice and the surroundings were beautiful, but I don't think I could manage even 17 hours in there.

Kanchipuram (or maybe it's Kancheepuram)

I decided to take a day trip to Kanchipuram, the silk capital of India, to take a tour with the Rural Institute for Development Education, an NGO that works to end child labor and empower women in the state of Tamil Nadu. To get to Kanchipuram from Chennai, the person at RIDE told me to take bus 79. When I asked the man at the lodge to confirm, he said there is no 79, take 76A. So I go to the big bus station in Chennai where there is no 79 or 76A. I take 76B to Kanchipuram and actually arrive on time.

RIDE was great. The tour includes a visit to the leader of one of the women's groups, who showed me all of her book keeping from the last few years. Women contribute about $1 a month to be part of the women's group. In return they learn about borrowing money and business and can take out a loan from the group's money for medical, school, family or emergency expenses.

Then I visited homes that had silk looms. I met a man who made silk wedding saris which will sell for 20,000 rupees or about $500 each. To make three of these a month he makes 5,000 rupees ($125). A woman making simpler saris in the same time makes 3,000 rupees (about $75). It's such difficult work for such beautiful clothes. It seems so unfair.

After I saw the looms, I visited a school where RIDE educates nearby kids. The school was built with money collected on a Semester at Sea ship, and RIDE was expecting 40 Semester at Sea students the next day. There were three classes of kids aged 3-6 (so tiny). They sang rhymes for me. It was adorable.

After a snack of peanuts from RIDE's community garden, it was time to go back to Chennai. The director dropped me off at bus 79. It does exist! As it left the station and the ticket collector came to get my money, he told me the bus didn't go to Chennai. Of course not! I took it anyway, hoping it would get me close. I wouldn't say it got close, but it was the right direction.

It was a great day. It was wonderful to see an organization like RIDE making progress and growing. Two volunteers from the US were there filling out grant applications. Two volunteers from Holland were working on expanding their tours. RIDE has a staff of 45 and makes weekly visits to the women's groups. They don't plan to grow bigger than Tamil Nadu but keep expanding their services. The director is a passionate man and former teacher who won't stop at anything. He said he has been threatened and nearly killed, but he's still up beat and laughing all the time.

Mamallapuram

IMG_1128, originally uploaded by cbern18.

So after planning to leave Wednesday, I finally left to Mamallapuram on Friday. I just couldn't motivate to give up my breezy room at the Broadlands Lodge. Subconciously I must have known Tina Blue View in Mamallapuram couldn't compare. There was a spider the size of my palm that just hung out in the bathroom and the speaker right outside my bedroom came alive at 6 o'clock in the morning with "music" and "singing" from the temple for the holiday weekend. The temple just re-opened after the tsunami destroyed it. And to celebrate there was music blasted throughout the town on huge speakers nearly 24 hours a day. At night the music from the dance show on the beach was broadcast. One of the songs was Brittney Spears. The others were Tamil (I think) pop songs that performers lip sync-ed to and pretty much acted out.

After a restful night, I hit the sights. The rock carvings were impressive and it was nice to get some fresh air outside Chennai. I went to the 5 Rathas (sorry can't remember what they mean exactly). They looked more like a play ground with kids crawling everywhere, but they are well preserved and it was fun to hang out and watch.

Later I went for a walk on the beach. I'm such a prude now. I didn't bring anything shorter than pants to the beach and it's like 100 degrees! But seeing as the women go in the ocean in their clothes, I figured I'd skip my bikini. At lunch I could have sworn I ordered fish but when the waiter brought chicken, I couldn't have been happier. My taste buds rejoiced and my body instantly felt stronger. My veg days are over.

Me on being a vegetarian

IMG_1166, originally uploaded by cbern18.

I'm a quitter. I quit my job; I quit drinking; I quit guitar. Now I quit eating meat and using toilet paper. (JK about that last one). I think India must be the easiest country to be a vegetarian. Every other restaurant is vegetarian and every restaurant has a veg menu. Buffets are lined up with veg on one side and meat on the other. I haven't really noticed a difference in how I feel, maybe because the food is so different in general. My mouth is constantly on fire. I never know what I'm ordering, but it always tastes good. I don't think I've had a meal that I didn't like, which is good because I can never remember the names of anything to re-order it or avoid it. I've decided each little metal (tiffen) bowl filled with sauce is like a little garden with its big leaves of spices, little trees of cauliflower, and sticks of other spices. Even though I need frequent breaks from rice, the food is delicious.

And going to a restaurant is always an experience in itself. Either four waiters (I haven't seen a waitress yet) hover around me and ignore the other customers or there are more waiters than tables but I can't get anyone to help me. Sometimes customers will join me even if there are other tables available. They either want all my contact info within the first minute or don't talk to me at all. It's the strangest thing.

Chennai-yai-yai

A temple in Chennai, originally uploaded by cbern18.

During it's hey-day, Chennai must have been so lovely. Buried underneath layers of signs, decaying paint, and dust, the buildings are charming. The rickshaw drivers here drive the hardest bargain yet. So I've opted for public transportation. I'm still working on figuring out the buses but the ladies car on the city train is actually quite relaxed and not totally crowded. The journey to the train takes me through a neighborhood of shacks. Despite the dilapidated conditions, it is quite friendly and peaceful. On the other end of the train ride, I dodge motorcycles, bikes, buses, rickshaws, bicycle carts, people sleeping, men peeing, kids playing, trash and cows all to get to yoga, a tranquil oasis in this crazy city. Last class the teacher told me I had excellent breath control! It made my week! After yoga, I stroll over to my chanting class. There are only 3 notes, but I can't seem to stick to them. I have no idea what I'm chanting but I like it. There's a man at my hostel who says I shouldn't trust it and that I'm probably chanting for an evil spirit to come and curse me. Thanks for your vote of confidence! After chanting, I stroll over to eco-cafe, which true to its advertising is actually in a leafy garden and is situated next to a great clothing store!

Chennai is home for the moment and maybe for the next month. I plan to take some yoga classes of the type I was practicing in Atlanta and travel to nearby towns and ashrams. Last weekend I planned to go to Mamallapuram. But before I could make it to the bus, I met my shopping match. I ditched Mamallapuram and headed to the mall. The rickshaw driver got lost and wanted us to pay more. In the quarrel I left my back pack packed for a weekend get-away in the rickshaw. I was just thinking I had too much stuff. I embraced the loss as an excuse to let lose at the mall. I bought my first 3 piece Indian outfit (pants, shirt, and scarf). By the time I finished the tiny coffee the saleswoman brought me, the store tailor had added darts to the shirt and shaped it to fit me. It was amazing. Indian women are always dressed to a T with completely coordinated outfits. I look like a total scrub in my mismatched, hodge-podge of Indian clothing. However, I am working just as hard on that as I am on my yoga.