Neither here nor there

Ah! I'm in a totally new country with absolutely no plan!!! I jumped to the closest big city, Mumbai/Bombay. As I stepped off the train in Mumbai, I felt this intense excitement to be in Mumbai and at the very same time an intense desire to go home. I don't know how it's possible to feel both, but I did. Like it just dawned on me that I hadn't been home in two months. Since going home was not a convenient option, I focused on the excitement of being in a new city.

Luckily Aabir, a friend from back home, who is apparently very well connected in India, put me in touch with some of his friends. Aabir, you're such a life saver! I've already met one of his lovely friend's, Kiran. We had coffee together today. She helped me plan out the next few days here and point me in the right direction for some new clothes. I can't thank either of them enough! I don't know what I would have done without their help.

Sickie

It took me a few days to realize, I am sick with a cold. I usually attribute the lead-weight feeling when I go to get out of bed to constantly being on the go, being alone and culture shock/language barriers (even crossing the street is an adventure). But this time that unstoppable urge to climb back into bed is because I'm sick. I've been sneezing and coughing for days and just now remembered I'm carrying a small pharmacy in my back pack, and there are ayruvedic care centers on every other corner.

Change of plans

Elizabeth Gilbert, author of Eat Pray Love, inspired me to spend three months in India working, learning and meditating at an ashram. I applied to the OSHO Meditation Resort in Pune and was accepted for a 3 month program. After a few days in Pune, I decided OSHO wasn't the best fit for me. So now I have three months to play! Back to the drawing board.

Being around the ashram was fun. I met lots of interesting people. Here quitting your job to travel or move to another country is the norm. Every other person either doesn't know what they are going to do or is a massage therapist. If they're not a massage therapist, they do feng shui or paint mandolins. It's so much fun to meet people who are on a spiritual journey or are in a similar stage of "what should I do with my life."

Taking the long way

I left Rio on January 21st and arrived in Pune, India on the 24th. I'm not really sure where all those days went. I had a long layover in Madrid, which was nice to visit my old stomping grounds. I think I ate the entire day. I've been missing Spanish food. Then I flew to London and the next plane was delayed. Once I arrived in Delhi at 2:30 in the morning, I waited for another 7 hours to fly to Pune.

Adios Sur America

IMG_0729, originally uploaded by cbern18.

Well, my time in South America is almost over. I'm not even sure how I chose to come here. I pulled it out of thin air but I am so glad I came and look forward to returning. I only really saw two (Peru and Colombia) or the original six countries I thought I would visit. This continent is a little bigger than I imagined! Just means I'll be back again.

My intention in South America was to get back to nature and relax. Mission accomplished! In the jungles of Colombia, I could recognize the plants and animals I learned about in Peru. I used my first pair of hiking boots on the Inca Trail and it turns out with the right shoes and a porter, I like hiking. I camped for three nights on the trail and then spent eight days in the Amazon jungle. I would have considered it mission accomplished after Peru but in Colombia, I spent even more time outdoors. Hiking and swimming with Max's family was so refreshing. And I hope I can spend every New Year's Day out in the middle of a gorgeous river in the jungle with good friends, like I started 2008. Then I hit the beach in Cartagena and Parque Tayrona. The ocean was so gorgeous and so relaxing. Coming back from the park was like coming out of a dream.

Not only did I fulfill my purpose but I learned so much more. I loved learning about the Incas in Peru. I really like traveling alone but at times I also really hate it. It's been difficult to get in the groove at times but the hard times never last long. It's been scary not know what the hell I'm doing and not speaking the language that well. But it's been good to push past the fear and do it anyway. It's been great to listen to my body and create my own path. I've loved meeting people from all over the world. I've learned so much about other countries and different walks of life. It's also been humbling, saying the wrong things and having to rely on so many people. But overall I'm so happy and grateful that everything went so smoothly. I never imagined it would be this much fun! It's hard to leave South America but I'm looking forward to the next leg of the journey.

Rio Round II

IMG_0752, originally uploaded by cbern18.

It was nice to start and end my South American journey in Rio with Freddy. We've known each other since I was a wee freshman in high school so it's always great to catch up, hang out and party together. On Friday when I arrived, Freddy was at work. It was so nice to have my own, modern, clean space after camping and staying in hostels. Once Freddy got home we decided to have a chill evening. However, when he got out of the shower, he was like a new person. He said to hell with it, I was only in Rio for the weekend. We should take advantage of it. Our first stop was Porcao (not sure how to spell that), which is a restaurant where they bring big skewers of meat to your table and an all you can eat salad bar. The beef was so delicious. It really melted in your mouth. Then we met up with Freddy's friend, Max, at a bar near their houses. After a few drinks we headed to another bar with live music on the first floor and dancing on the second. The music was great and it was so much fun to dance. I was shocked at how the Brazilians are making out all over the place. It was a bit rude how much I was staring but I just couldn't help myself.

The next morning, we met up with another of Fred's friends, Neil, and headed up to the Christ and the Sugar Loaf. We had gorgeous weather and a nice relaxing time at each. After a long, deep nap, I rallied to go out to dinner and we called it an early night. The next day we took it easy, rode bikes around the lagoa and ate at this incredible restaurant in a beautiful park. The building used to be a palace for a Portuguese king but now it is a cultural center and restaurant. It was great to get some veggies after a meat filled weekend. And that night, we had delicious sushi, which I had been craving since I left Brazil two months earlier. I had a blast with Freddy and it was hard to leave!

Parque Tayrona

I had to tear myself away from Cartagena because I heard that Parque Tayrona was worth a visit. It's a national park along the Caribbean coast. The rumors are true; it's gorgeous.

Once I got to Santa Marta (the jumping off point for the park), I was taking my time making plans and packing. When I was finally ready to go, I heard that Osvaldo, a taxi driver, was already taking Tim, Nico, and Paola to the park, so I eagerly joined them, and it's a good thing I did. Osvaldo's 30-year-old taxi made it to the park where we hiked to a campsite that rented hammocks and had a restaurant, because needless to say I had some clothes and a candy bar and that was it. Well, once we arrived at Cabo (the campsite on the beach), the authorities informed us it was full. It was getting dark and the camps were filling up, so Tim lead us to a beach he had seen a few days earlier. We were the only ones and it was beautiful. Luckily Tim had a seemingly bottomless bag with unlimited camping supplies and Nico and Paola had actually prepared and had some food. After dinner, which consisted of a few bites of tuna and crackers, it was so nice to be able to jump into the Caribbean. I slept on the sand under a mosquito net gazing at the stars. It was a very magical (and cold) experience. The next morning, the first thing I did was go for another swim. It's such a luxury to wake up on the beach 5 feet from the warm, clear ocean. After a swim we searched out food. I found myself at a bakery on the beach eating pan de chocolate. Yum. Nico and Paola stayed at a beach nearby while Tim and I hiked to Playa Brava. What an adventure! First we hiked out of the park and took a taxi to another entrance. Then we hiked 3 hours in the blazing sun up and over a small mountain. Luckily Tim is a more positive person than most and we arrived exhausted but happy. Playa Brava was worth the hike. It's an ecological reserve without electricity but with running spring water. It has about six cabanas and a private beach. So actually even though sleeping on the sand next to the beach is nice, sleeping in a hammock in a cabana next to the beach is even better. There were four people from Spain staying there when we arrived. They were so sweet and very fun. Tim and I stayed longer than planned but he kept pulling food out of his bottomless bag. Finally when it ran out, we ate fresh fish from the sea and coconuts from the trees. We had a blast on the beach and also hiking to the waterfall nearby, which was supposedly started when 2 indigenous people, a man and a woman, clicked two rocks together. Actually, Jorge, who runs the place, is buying up land along the coast to eventually give it back to the indigenous people who lived there before it was a national park. I was amazed at the altruism of Jorge. I guess if you want something done right, you really do have to do it yourself.

After our arduous hike to Playa Brava, we returned on horseback. Well, really I was on a mule, a really stubborn one. Even though I'm more sore from riding the mule than hiking, it was worth it. Coming back to Santa Marta was like coming back to reality. Playa Brava and Parque Tayrona really were a paradise. Even though as a vagabond, I'm always coming and going, this time it really felt like I had been away from the world.

Ciudad Vieja

I spent my last day in Cartagena wandering around the Old City. The buildings are all colorfully painted and bougainvillea hangs over the balconies. It's like taking a step back in time. The breeze made sitting on a cafe patio and people watching perfect. Mime and dance performers popped up here and there. It was wonderful to get a free show. Despite all the beauty, the best part of the day might have been that i actually made it out that night with Amy, Gil and Martin. We went to Café Havana right around the corner from our hotels. The itty bitty waitress could not get over the fact that Martin was 6'8 and catered to his every need. It was quite sweet. Amy kept the beat with her new little shakers sold by a lively guy making his way around the bars. The music was great and I had a blast. I should get out more often.

Islas de Rosarios and Playa Blanca

After the day at the beach, I took a tour to Islas de Rosario and Playa Blanca. i spent the day with Alex and Marta, a couple from Colombia. We hada great time at the Oceanario where they have an aquarium made by dividing sections of the ocean into habitats for the animals. We saw tons of sharks, sting rays, and dolphins. It was awesome. the we headed over to Playa Blanca for lunch and more sun. The water was so beautiful. it was clear and calm. We took a nice swim out to the boat and back.

Cartagena

Cartagena! it's so beautiful. it reminds me a little bit of Cuba. Even the sketchy area where I'm staying is adorable. The streets are lined with colorfu buildings. When I peak inside, the rooms are empty except for some placstic chairs and a hammock but the people are chatting and eating together.

I acutally am staying a day longer than planned because I still haven't seen the Old City, which is the main attraction. The first day, I went door-to-door trying to find a cheap place to stay. It's peak season here and rooms are hard to come by. Then I headed to the beach with a couple from San Francisco (Amy and Gill) and a couple from Bogotá (Carolina and Cameron). We rented a little carpa (tent) on the beach and were swarmed by vendors selling everything from sunglasses to food to cell phone minutes. Carolina taught us how to politely say no. The weather was absolutely perfect and the water was warm and the people watching was excellent. After a day at the beach we headed into the Old City for a quick drink.

Freedom

I realize thus far I've written about notheing except myself, well, and maybe the food. But now it's time for a little politics. Two of the women kidnapped by the FARC 8 years ago (I think) were released. It was so emotional. I don't know much about Colombian politics, but I can't imagine what these women have been through, and what the other hostages are still going through. One of the women will be reunited with her son, Emanuel, whos was given away by the FARC two and a half years ago (he's now three and a half years old).

I was eating lunch with a Carolina and Cameron (a couple from Bogotá that I met in Cartagena) watching as the women were reunited with their families, including a grandchild she didn't know existed. It was tear jerking. And it's hopeful. It's amazing to be in Colombia. Uribe, the current president, has made incredible progress. I can't imagine growing up with so much violence and civil war, but i am inspired by and in awe of all the changes I've heard about and how much safer it seems.

Accommodations

It happened. I got lonely. So I had three candy bars for dinner and bought a new swim suit. After my dad's visit, I had Tiffany's to look forward to. But now that she's gone, it's lonely. I have to readjust to traveling by myself. Well, maybe it's just to the dingy-ness of hostels. When I was at the lovely Casa Relax B&B, I was a happy camper. It had a parrot, a pretty pool, a yummy breakfast, trendy rooms, and hammocks. Now that I'm at Hotel Española (see picture), I'm having adjustment issues. The shower is a pipe sticking out of the wall and the lock is a padlock. I feel a bit like I'm sleeping in a locker. But despite the fact that rope is holding the bed together, last night, there were some guys in the hallway playing the guitar and sining quite pleasantly. And I could hear the men trying to teach each other to dance. It actually wasn't a bad way to fall asleep. The room has a place to lie down, a working toilet and a fan. I guess that's all I really need.

Food

I´ve ventured into street food. So far I´ve had a very flavorful beef kabob with very flavorful baked potatoes on either end. And a bag of sliced mango with salt and orange lime (it´s a fruit that is a cross between an orange and a lime). Delicious! Apparently there are a zillion different breads in Colombia, all very tasty. I especially love the cheese bread. And I´ve made sure to sample all the sodas and candy bars. Most recently I had a Jumbo X-treme, which was not jumbo and stated extremely like cardboard. Jet candy bars have all been delicious. If those aren´t sweet enough for you, you can finish it off with an ultra sweet pink soda, Postobon or Colombiana. (I´d go for the Colombiana.) I´ve also tried to have the typical plates from each region I´ve been to. The first day I got to Colombia, Max took me out to lunch. I opted for the trypical plate, bandeja paisajo, which contains no less than five kinds of meat and sausage, a fried egg, rice, beans, plantains and an avocado. I ate almost the entire thing. Max´s family is in shock (and maybe a little disgusted) that I lived to tell about it. Well, this little food monolougue wouldn´t be complete without mentioning the delicious juices. Every morning at Max´s house, we´d awake to freshly squeezed OJ. My mouth waters just thinking about it. We ate like royalty at Max´s house for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Ah, I miss that!

¡Que chevere!

IMG_0509, originally uploaded by cbern18.

Tiffany has decided that Colombia wins the prize for the best Christmas decorations, and I have to agree. Everywhere we´ve been has been decked out. At night everything is lit up. This star was at the T in Bogotá, a neighborhood with restaurants and bars. We had great stir fry here at Wok. Then we walked around Parque 93 which had a replica of Bethleham and a huge Christmas tree, with a B on top for Berni.

Max´s aunt and uncle graciously offered to let us stay at their apartment in Bogotá. It was beautiful and super close to Exito, the Target of Colombia. Of course I had to go and it was well worth it. After picking up a few things there, Tiffany, Max and I explored the city. Max was a wonderful tour guide. We saw his university, Candelaria (a cute little neighborhood), the Gold Museum, the Botero Museum, and Monseratt (a church on a mountain where you take a cable car to the top and have great views of the city). For being there less than 48 hours, we saw tons!

¡Ay, que bonita es esta vida!

Ah, it´s so wonderful to see familiar faces. It´s been such a blast hanging out with Tiffany and Max. We´ve already been to Medellín, Bogotá, Cisneros and Caracoli (try to find that on a map!). In Caracoli we went rafting, which included lunch at this little restaurant in this little town in the middle of nowhere, but this nowhere was really beautiful. After I finished eating lunch, Max´s sister proceded to tell me how sick I was going to get from eating at this restaurant. Then we tried to organize 22 of Max´s family members and 2 gringas into 3 rafts and a kayak, which you can imagine how long that took. Just as we hit the water, these kids starting throwing rocks at us. Luckily no one was hurt. The rafting was great. Despite the water being full of vitimina-M (mierda), the scenery was gorgeous: gigantic trees, tropical flowers, and cool rocks. We had a guide, but after we crashed into a rock, Max did most of the stearing. Another boat also had a slight mis-hap and got a huge tear in the bottom of it. To get back to the starting point we road on these little carts on the old train track. The carts were powered by old motorcycles. It was awesome riding in the front through the jungle, wind blowing through my hair. It´s just so beautiful here.