On being home

So home is great. Besides my friends and family, everything seems to be pretty much the same here. I wouldn't say I'm having reverse culture shock; it's more like post traumatic stress disorder. Like I almost missed my sister's art opening because I couldn't decide what to wear. There were just too many options. I was used to the same 4 shirts and 2 pairs of pants. The price of gas was a big blow, but since I haven't had a car, it hasn't been a problem. And for those of you wondering how we used to live before we had cell phones, it's kind of nice but isolating. I feel like I'm still in another country using email as my main form of communication. But, yes, it's great to go home and check the answering machine. (I can't believe I could still find one.)

I just wanted to thank everyone who made my adventure such a success. I couldn't have done it without you. Thanks for all of your support in making the leap to quit my job and travel. Thanks for helping me prepare with travel books and tons of gear from REI. I'm so attached to my back pack that I just can't seem to unpack it quite yet. It's practically been my home for the last 7 months. Thank you for all your support and prayers throughout the adventure. They made it a success. And thanks to everyone who read my blog! I really appreciate the comments and feedback. I hope everyone is having a great summer, I know I am now that I'm home!

Home, Sweet, Home

I've had enough. I'm done. I'm home! I had a fabulous adventure but it was starting to wear on me. I was exhausted and homesick. So after 7 months, I decided to call it quits. And it's wonderful to be home! I'm so happy!!! It's great to have fresh clothes, a comfy bed and clean feet. I can't wait to catch up with everyone. I'd love to hear from you: cbern18@gmail.com. I hope everyone's having a great summer. Happy 4th of July!

Safari Time

After an awesome time in Cape Town, Anna and I headed to Johannesburg to start our safari in Kruger Park. We spent one crazy night in Johannesburg before the safari. First we went out to eat with the Delta flight crew who was staying in our hotel. Unfortunately all the pilots were married but we did get a free glass of wine. Then we made it to our concert just in time for the second half. Johnny Clegg was amazing. He was born in Zimbabwe but moved to South Africa when he was young. He became close to the Zulus and sings an ecletic mix of music. His latest album includes songs about the situation in Zimbabwe, traveling, child soldiers, deciding to get married and life in general. It was actaully a great culmination to my trip. The first song we saw included Indian sitar players and Indian style dance combined with Zulu music and dance. It was amazing. Johnny even tied in some French, which France is Anna's second home. After a little international drunk dialing, we headed to bed so we could wake up in a few hours to drive 8 hours to Kruger Park.

Needless to say the drive out to Kruger was not the most pleasant. It was long and cold, but the first game drive made it totally worth it. We saw kudu, elephants with their babies, giraffes with their babies, zebras with their babies, and buffalo all on the first day. But the highlight was seeing the lions eating. We found them just after they had killed a big kudu. There were 9 adult lions and one cub chowing down on this kudu. It was incredible. Big chunks of meat were flying. It's so amazing to see the circle of life! There is so much order in nature. Nothing dies needlessly. Every creature has its own mode of protection and place in the world.

Over the next two nights we camped in the bush in Kruger Park. It was amazing. At night we saw hyenas walked past as we ate and heard lions roar. During the day we went on two game walks. On the first the guide was so cute but he kept talking about and playing with animal poo the whole time. He would crack it open and touch it and say, "feel how warm this is? It was probably left within the last 45 minutes." He would really expect us to feel how warm it was. Disgusting. But not as bad as the next walk, when the guide told us how when walking in the bush, people would get really bored and make up games. One game was to shoot giraffe poop out of your mouth to see how far you could get it. Anna actually tried it! You don't really know someone until you travel with them. JK. I tried it too!

The safari was amazing. The last night we stayed on a game reserve in the cutest hut and awesome outdoor shower. Our guide was super knowledgeable and patient. We also saw the Drakensburg Escarpement, which was breathtaking. I'm so thankful Anna came to visit. I feel so lucky to have friends that will travel half way around the world so we can share an adventure together. Anna and I had a blast. I haven't laughed this hard in a long time, well not since Mom visited. Thanks, Anna! Looking forward to the next adventure together.

Anna does Cape Town

I was eagerly anticipating Anna's visit! It's been so long since I've seen a friend from home! Anna arrived on a Friday evening and we didn't waste a second hitting the Cape Town sites. We had a delicious dinner at the Victoria and Albert Waterfront and spent plenty of time catching up on the last 7 months.

The next day, Anna suggested we hike up Table Mountain. Luckily the weather cooperated and we made it up the side of a cliff basically in 2 hours. The climb was tough and the top was extremely windy. I thought we were going to blow off so we hid out in the gift shop. We were two hours late to pick up our rental car. Luckily, they stayed open until we got there. Everyone is so helpful here. We hopped in our cute little car, Marshmallow. By the time we got to the Cape of Good Hope, my legs were sore from the earlier hike. But the views were gorgeous and totally worth it. Then it was off to see the penguins. It was dark by this point so we didn't make it down to the beach but there were plenty of penguins in the parking lot and along the street. So cute!

The next day was a little rainy so we took it easy with a delicious brunch at the Bay Hotel with beautiful views of the beach followed by some curios shopping. After our relaxed day, the next day we packed it in. In the In the morning Anna and I froze on the Robben Island tour. Then we headed to Stellenbosch, one of the many wine areas. It was absolutely gorgeous, which made getting lost a little more pleasant. And the wines were divine! 

Welcome to Africa

So had I done a little more research before I planned this trip, I may have gone to India when it was cooler and Cape Town when it was warmer. But what can you do?

I had a mini-case of culture shock leaving India. Even being in the London airport felt strange. But once I arrived in Cape Town, I felt at ease. It was a beautiful sunny day and the city looked gorgeous. I stayed at a lovely backpackers (Cape Town Backpackers) with helpful staff and friendly travelers. Cape Town was so lovely I stayed 2 weeks before starting to work on my purpose in Africa.

I came to Africa with the intention of volunteering with kids and sports. However, given that I came up with that plan a year ago, it's changed a little. I still want to volunteer but I've broadened the scope to also working with marine life. I've always loved dolphins (as some of you know since I forced you to watch the video of me swimming with the dolphins in Mexico) and when I was little I wanted to be a marine biologist when I grew up. So I thought I'd give it a try.

Since the weather was cold and cloudy in Cape Town, I flew to Mozambique. I met a guy in the airport heading to Barra, so I decided to tag along. I spent the first week there, which may be the prettiest beach I've ever seen. Big palm trees, soft sand, a wide beach and crystal clear water. There I did my PADI advanced open water diver certification so I could dive deeper (to 100 feet). It was amazing. I saw a white tipped reef shark, huge manta rays, devil rays, long eels, nemos, and tons of colorful fish. It was magical.

I met great people diving as well. It's so refreshing to hang out with people who are living their dreams as SCUBA instructors. I also met some great travelers. Marcus, Sean and Natasha are on their way around they world. Now they're touring southern Africa in their decked out 4X4. It was awesome. I hitched a ride with them to Maputo and got to sleep in the tent on their roof! There was even a fridge in the back of the truck and their GPS knows all the dirt roads in the tiniest of villages.

Mamma Mia

So my mom set the stage for our time together but she didn't tell you what a good sport she was. Mom hadn't been there 24 hours when I took her to catch our train at the New Delhi train station. And even though it's called New Delhi train station, there ain't nothing new about it. There are 1 billion people in India and I think half of them were at the train station that day, along with an equal number of rats. People sleeping, people living at the train station, people peeing, people begging, people yelling, people waiting every where. So we get on our 1st class A/C sleeper with another family and off we go. We were on our way to visit relatives of family friends, Anjali and Saleem, in a small town (in India that means a population of half a million people) called Basti. We were so excited to meet them and for a true Indian experience.

We wake up later with a strange man in our cabin but that's not unusual. Then we hear the news that there was a derailment in front of us just before Basti. We had to wait until it cleared. And wait and wait and wait. We waited on the train with no opening windows, no water, no food for 9 hours in 107 degree heat. It was like a sauna. We had to ask our cabin mates for their Fanta and Mom made me ration it. Finally the train started moving, but not towards Basti. It was being re-routed. We were instructed to get off at the next stop and wait for a ride to Basti. So we did. I was dying of thirst and hunger so I made my mom walk across the dirt road to the truck stop sheds. It took 3 sheds before I found "cold" water and chips. Spicy chips never tasted so good.

We were so happy to see our ride to Basti! They greeted us with a helping hand, cool car and cold drinks. When we arrived in Basti, Saleem welcomed us with the warmest welcome. He had cold lassis and sweets waiting for us, followed by a huge lunch of specially prepared non-spicy Indian food. I didn't know it existed! The meal was delicious, and I didn't shed any tears from spiciness.

Saleem and Anjali are both doctors. They work around the clock taking care of their patients who stay at the hospital on the 1st floor of their house. We took a tour of the hospital and met patients recovering from surgery, illness and deliveries. It is incredible all the hard work that they have both done and the special attention they give their patients.

My mom and I had a fabulous time with Anjali and Saleem. We had massages, got full mendi (henna) done, and saw several Indian weddings with grooms entering on camels, horses and elephants. Saleem even has a vintage American car, which we got to ride in. And it a visit wouldn't be complete without a Hindi dance party in one of the staff's homes.

We wished we had more time in Basti. Saleem and Anjali welcomed us right into their home and showed us a true Indian experience. If they ever get tired of being doctors, they should have a bed and breakfast!









On the way home, we were only delayed 7 hours on the train, but we had A/C, food and water the whole trip. After the grueling train rides, we treated our selves to a luxury hotel and it was fabulous. We were definitely in need of a swim, being that it was extremely hot. However, we didn't have our swimsuits with us. So we went to buy some. The first ones we found looked like figure skating outfits with a skirt over bikers and puffy sleeves. We were so desperate to swim that we bought them anyway.

Mom and I spent the rest of our days touring Delhi and napping. It was so hot we'd see one site and go for a nap. Then see another followed by another nap. And of course we saw the Taj Mahal, in all it's glory. I had an incredible time with my mom. She took all the glitches in stride. Thanks for coming!

adios India

I'm not quite sure how to sum up this trip. It will probably take some time to process and I'm sure once I return home, I'll realize even more things about India, the States and myself.

I think after South America, I said I really liked traveling alone. Well, now I really hate traveling alone, and I'm not sure I ever want to do it again. Yes, I realize I still have 3 months to go.

India is the land of extremes. I met amazing people with big hearts. I received warm welcomes all over India. I've been to at least 15 cities in 3 months. I've learned about religions, arranged marriages, people, culture, food, languages and tons more. Even after 3 months, I'm still amazed by India. Seriously every time I leave my hotel room, it's an adventure.

My purpose here was to study yoga and meditation, and I'd say mission accomplished and so much more that I never could have imagined. Cate and I did yoga nearly everyday. I got a personalized yoga practice from the Krishnamachara Yoga Mandrim, the yoga I studied in Atlanta. And I learned Cate's yoga practice also. I did some crazy meditations at OSHO (shaking for 15 minutes, screaming for 15 minutes, dancing for 15 minutes and finally sitting for 15 minutes), and some more traditional but intense meditations at the vipassana meditation course (no talking for 10 days, just sitting and meditating for 12 hours a day). That's probably the most intense I'll ever do. I'm actually happy my original plan to work in an ashram didn't work out. I got to learn about and experience India and it's culture and I made a life-long friend, Cate. Even if a new friend was all I gained from traveling to India, it was worth it. It's rare that you make such a close friend and are able to share such a wild and crazy experience in a foreign country together. And with my mom too! My mom and I made awesome travel buddies (well I shouldn't speak for her). Despite the many glitches we encountered, culture shock and jet lag, my mom rolled with the punches and we laughed through it all. It's rare I get so much individual time with someone, especially as cool as my mom. I just feel really blessed and lucky. Thanks, Mom!

So it's with a bittersweet goodbye to India that I embark on the next adventure in Africa, with no plan at all but with renewed trust in God that it will work out for the best.

Mother to the rescue

I am entering on Claire's blog because I now have entered into her amazing adventure- and I emphasize "adventure." As her mother I can offer a fresh perspective on her path to prosperity. I joined Claire on her journey in India. When I got through customs in Delhi in my perky little Coldwater Creek outfit at 10 at night, Claire was nowhere to be found and I had no way of reaching her. The Delhi airport was full of taxi driver type Hindu, Muslim, Sik, and other men - very few women - no English spoken here and no little helpful information booth. I acted confidently, as I strode around the airport, with not a clue as to what to do. This scenario was not part of the joyful reunion I had imagined and I struggled to control my inner panic. Finally, among about 100 men holding signs I found my guy. He was holding a sign- bern a d ette moo rree. Close enough. I whisked out of the airport with a complete stranger and sped - and I emphasize sped- to the domestic airport, hopefully to pick up Claire. When we got to the "other airport" the driver pulled into the no parking zone and told me to sit behind the wheel while he went to search for Claire. I obeyed. As the police came striding up behind the car. Claire miraculously emerged from the cloud of dust which is the domestic airport and reached the car before the police. Claire, as always, looked incredibly happy and healthy and I, bedraggled and haggard, but it was a joyful reunion and the start of our Delhi adventure.

Mission: Amma Tappa

The goal for our weekend trip from Hyderabad was to get to the spiritual 'fortune teller,' Amma Tappa, in the Tibetan settlement of Bylakuppe and back within 72 hours. including 36 hours of travel. 1st stop: Bangalore.

On the non-AC overnight train to from Hyderabad to Bangalore, Cate was overheating, and I was dying of thirst, with no water in sight. Luckily I think that train was on time. Once we arrived in Bangalore, we treated ourselves to a luxurious hotel. Cate worked her magic and got the price reduced and buffet breakfast included. After check-in, there was really no need to leave the room, except to see KFC and go bowling. Feeling guilty about not seeing any sights during my 24 hours in Bangalore, we hired a rickshaw to show us 1 temple, 1 mosque and 1 church. We hit them all at a good time; there were prayers going on at each.

Next stop: Mysore. We took the train to Mysore where I received a huge, loud lecture from a railway employee on how I should respect authority in India. I had to politely tell him that if I stopped every time an Indian man said hi to me, I'd never get anywhere. Ooohhh, he was so mad.

Next stop: Bylakuppe. After leaving the train station in Mysore, everything went extremely smoothly. We got to the bus station just as the bus to Bylakuppe was pulling out. When we got to Bylakuppe, everyone knew how to get to Amma Tappa's house. When we got to her house, not just 1, but 4 translators appeared.

Amma Tappa inherited spiritual powers from her father. He thought the powers would be lost once he left Tibet, but Amma Tappa realized she had them at age 13. She looks into 3 special mirrors and can answer any yes/no question. The most common question is "will I get a US visa." I asked if God already had a plan for me? I think something might have gotten lost in translation, but she told me that I would be very successful. Not this year but maybe next; just be happy and success will come. It was a really wonderful experience. Amma Tappa is in her 80's now and has a beautiful face full of wrinkles. She blessed some plastic beads for us and told us to wear them always. Then Amma Tappa sent us on to the nunnery to be prayed for, gave us a Tibetan mantra and set us up with a place to stay. Mission accomplished.

Hyderabad- Part Duex

I decided to spend the next 3 weeks until my mom arrives at Cate's school in Hyderabad. It's a beautiful campus with a pretty sweet schedule: yoga every morning and 2.5 hours of classes starting at 10:30, including a tea break. I participated in the Art and Peace Building Workshop that was going on at the time. We each painted t-shirts with something having to do with peace. The instructor was an amazing artist and dedicated facilitator. He got really into the idea of a fashion show to show off our shirts. We decorated, rehersed, and filmed it. Unfortunately only 2 people came to watch. As things sometimes do, it turned into a dance party. Cate's been showing off her Hindi dance moves, which people really appreciate. And I think Suhail should try out for 'So you think you can dance.' He'd take the universe by storm.

When we weren't in class, Cate and I were hanging out with a family living on campus. They have 4 kids. We watched Bollywood movies, danced, did hair and ate the spiciest food of our lives. One day we had planned to take the kids to the pool but after the mom told us that the kids got skin diseases last year, we opted for the zoo. The zoo was quite impressive and best of all the sprinklers were on. It's so hot!

Rishikesh...Ashram central

After a fight with the management at our 1st hotel because our door wouldn't lock and a cow having diarrhea just barely missing my foot, Cate and I needed a little Parmarth Niketan Ashram. It was like a resort, a calm oasis from the fly infested, shit covered streets. We had a gorgeous, bright room with Anthro-like bedspreads and a view of the Ganges. In the 5 days we were there, I never made it to the yoga classes at 7 am but I did my own yoga routine and went to the later chanting session. And it was tough but every night, I had to tear myself away from our room for the atari (fire ceremony) on the Ganges. I think the only other time I left the room was to eat. Since my veg days are over, Cate and I searched everywhere for some meat. But being a holy Hindu city, it took 2 nights to find some. Everyone we asked looked at us like we were crazy. We finally hit the jack pot at a cute Swiss Hotel up in the hills with excellent views. And bravely I tried the chicken sizzler. Luckily it was plain, simple and delish. Our trip wouldn't be compete without a dip in the Ganges, fully clothed (as I haven't seen an Indian woman in a bathing suit). The Ganges was surprisingly clean at this point, though cold as ice.

Summer sets in

Ammedabad is basically a desert and Cate's apartment a sauna. It was a one bedroom apartment shared by 3 people with only 1 small fan. We had to move the fan around from room to room and all stay together in the same room. When you opened the bathroom, you walked into a swarm of mosquitoes, biting your rear-end as you peed. Even though the apartment wasn't much cooler than outside, at least we could lay down. Every afternoon we'd come home and take a sweaty nap. One night we treated ourselves to dinner in an AC restaurant. There was a section on the menu called Sizzler the Dizzler, so of course we had to order it. It had everything and the kitchen sink in it: French fries, tomato sauce, spaghetti, a stuffed bell pepper, vegetables and other unidentifiable foods. It actually tasted pretty good but it didn't feel too good coming out... Next stop Rishikesh.

Wild asses

Ammedabad experienced religious riots in 2002. It is still trying to recover. Cate had a peace-building internship here with SAMERTH, so I came along to see what was going on. SAMERTH also has a field office in Kutch, which is out in the desert. After touring their facilities and finding out about the birth control available, we went to the wildlife sanctuary to chase wild asses. Once we'd catch up to a wild ass (going 30-40 miles/hour) Cate's boss would stick his head out the window and scream at it. I was just holding on for dear life in the back seat of the car. The desert was amazing. I've never seen mirages like the ones there. The ground was completely dried up and cracking. And there were no landmarks to indicate which direction you came from or how to get back.

Layover in Delhi

Easter Day fell at the same time as a Muslim holiday and a Hindu holiday. Cate and I wanted to celebrate by spending the day in a nice park. I had my doubts about finding such a thing in India but low and behold we found the perfect place. It was gorgeous and even had a little cafe. Cate stumbled on the biggest beat stick ever. I think the normal beat sticks are used by the park workers to break up couples making out. We tried to have a photo shoot with a young couple and the beat stick but they weren't going for it! Then we found an abandoned wheelbarrow. And as if we didn't have enough fun pushing each other around, a near by woman actually wanted to join in!

Kashmir

Kashmir was incredible. The hospitality there rivaled that of the south. I flew up to Srinagar to meet Cate and stay with her friend from school, Suhail, and his family. I was welcomed with salty Kashmiri tea (nun chai) and 4 types of breads, all equally delicious. After stuffing my face and making short videos with the cousins, it was time to eat again. This time 5 different kinds of mutton, 1 chicken dish and piles upon piles of rice. Half way through dinner I didn't think I could get anymore in, but each family member stopped by Cate's and my dinner area to cheer us on until we had finished our plates, and I mean spotlessly finished our plates. I thought my ears would turn into kebabs. Luckily I survived the night to wake up for more tea and biscuits at breakfast. It was the same warm welcoming at 4 different aunt's houses over the next week. Good thing the Indian pants are big with a drawstring.












I even got to wrestle on of the aunts.










Suhail's family is fabulous. I learned so much about Kashmir and Islam.












I learned some Kashmiri and how to make chai.














And of course we saw the sights...beautiful Palogum and Lake Dal.

Tiruvannamalai (don't ask me to pronounce it)

So after the bus run around on the way to Kanchipuram, I was determined to get it right this time. But seeing as I still have no idea how to pronounce this town's name, it was a bit difficult. As I got on the bus, I was so proud that it was so easy this time. Then as we pull out of the station and the ticket collector comes for my money, he tells me I'm on the wrong bus, but for the life of me, I can't tone down the American accent enough to be understood. Finally the people in the next rows start helping me. The ticket collector lets me know where to get off for the right bus. After I get off the bus and it's pulling away, everyone is hanging out the window telling the people on the street which bus to put me on. People are extremely helpful here. You know that expression, "do everything as if the whole world is watching"? Sometimes in India I feel like the whole world really is watching, staring, thinking what will this 28 year old American woman with no husband or kids do next?

Tiruvannamalai was pretty uneventful. I saw the huge temple there honoring Shiva, a Hindu god. Then I climbed half way up the holy mountain. Apparently you're supposed to start the trek at 6 a.m. and since I started at 10:30 it was too hot to make it all the way up. But I did make it to the cave where one of the famous gurus meditated for 17 years. The cave was nice and the surroundings were beautiful, but I don't think I could manage even 17 hours in there.

Kanchipuram (or maybe it's Kancheepuram)

I decided to take a day trip to Kanchipuram, the silk capital of India, to take a tour with the Rural Institute for Development Education, an NGO that works to end child labor and empower women in the state of Tamil Nadu. To get to Kanchipuram from Chennai, the person at RIDE told me to take bus 79. When I asked the man at the lodge to confirm, he said there is no 79, take 76A. So I go to the big bus station in Chennai where there is no 79 or 76A. I take 76B to Kanchipuram and actually arrive on time.

RIDE was great. The tour includes a visit to the leader of one of the women's groups, who showed me all of her book keeping from the last few years. Women contribute about $1 a month to be part of the women's group. In return they learn about borrowing money and business and can take out a loan from the group's money for medical, school, family or emergency expenses.

Then I visited homes that had silk looms. I met a man who made silk wedding saris which will sell for 20,000 rupees or about $500 each. To make three of these a month he makes 5,000 rupees ($125). A woman making simpler saris in the same time makes 3,000 rupees (about $75). It's such difficult work for such beautiful clothes. It seems so unfair.

After I saw the looms, I visited a school where RIDE educates nearby kids. The school was built with money collected on a Semester at Sea ship, and RIDE was expecting 40 Semester at Sea students the next day. There were three classes of kids aged 3-6 (so tiny). They sang rhymes for me. It was adorable.

After a snack of peanuts from RIDE's community garden, it was time to go back to Chennai. The director dropped me off at bus 79. It does exist! As it left the station and the ticket collector came to get my money, he told me the bus didn't go to Chennai. Of course not! I took it anyway, hoping it would get me close. I wouldn't say it got close, but it was the right direction.

It was a great day. It was wonderful to see an organization like RIDE making progress and growing. Two volunteers from the US were there filling out grant applications. Two volunteers from Holland were working on expanding their tours. RIDE has a staff of 45 and makes weekly visits to the women's groups. They don't plan to grow bigger than Tamil Nadu but keep expanding their services. The director is a passionate man and former teacher who won't stop at anything. He said he has been threatened and nearly killed, but he's still up beat and laughing all the time.

Mamallapuram

IMG_1128, originally uploaded by cbern18.

So after planning to leave Wednesday, I finally left to Mamallapuram on Friday. I just couldn't motivate to give up my breezy room at the Broadlands Lodge. Subconciously I must have known Tina Blue View in Mamallapuram couldn't compare. There was a spider the size of my palm that just hung out in the bathroom and the speaker right outside my bedroom came alive at 6 o'clock in the morning with "music" and "singing" from the temple for the holiday weekend. The temple just re-opened after the tsunami destroyed it. And to celebrate there was music blasted throughout the town on huge speakers nearly 24 hours a day. At night the music from the dance show on the beach was broadcast. One of the songs was Brittney Spears. The others were Tamil (I think) pop songs that performers lip sync-ed to and pretty much acted out.

After a restful night, I hit the sights. The rock carvings were impressive and it was nice to get some fresh air outside Chennai. I went to the 5 Rathas (sorry can't remember what they mean exactly). They looked more like a play ground with kids crawling everywhere, but they are well preserved and it was fun to hang out and watch.

Later I went for a walk on the beach. I'm such a prude now. I didn't bring anything shorter than pants to the beach and it's like 100 degrees! But seeing as the women go in the ocean in their clothes, I figured I'd skip my bikini. At lunch I could have sworn I ordered fish but when the waiter brought chicken, I couldn't have been happier. My taste buds rejoiced and my body instantly felt stronger. My veg days are over.

Me on being a vegetarian

IMG_1166, originally uploaded by cbern18.

I'm a quitter. I quit my job; I quit drinking; I quit guitar. Now I quit eating meat and using toilet paper. (JK about that last one). I think India must be the easiest country to be a vegetarian. Every other restaurant is vegetarian and every restaurant has a veg menu. Buffets are lined up with veg on one side and meat on the other. I haven't really noticed a difference in how I feel, maybe because the food is so different in general. My mouth is constantly on fire. I never know what I'm ordering, but it always tastes good. I don't think I've had a meal that I didn't like, which is good because I can never remember the names of anything to re-order it or avoid it. I've decided each little metal (tiffen) bowl filled with sauce is like a little garden with its big leaves of spices, little trees of cauliflower, and sticks of other spices. Even though I need frequent breaks from rice, the food is delicious.

And going to a restaurant is always an experience in itself. Either four waiters (I haven't seen a waitress yet) hover around me and ignore the other customers or there are more waiters than tables but I can't get anyone to help me. Sometimes customers will join me even if there are other tables available. They either want all my contact info within the first minute or don't talk to me at all. It's the strangest thing.

Chennai-yai-yai

A temple in Chennai, originally uploaded by cbern18.

During it's hey-day, Chennai must have been so lovely. Buried underneath layers of signs, decaying paint, and dust, the buildings are charming. The rickshaw drivers here drive the hardest bargain yet. So I've opted for public transportation. I'm still working on figuring out the buses but the ladies car on the city train is actually quite relaxed and not totally crowded. The journey to the train takes me through a neighborhood of shacks. Despite the dilapidated conditions, it is quite friendly and peaceful. On the other end of the train ride, I dodge motorcycles, bikes, buses, rickshaws, bicycle carts, people sleeping, men peeing, kids playing, trash and cows all to get to yoga, a tranquil oasis in this crazy city. Last class the teacher told me I had excellent breath control! It made my week! After yoga, I stroll over to my chanting class. There are only 3 notes, but I can't seem to stick to them. I have no idea what I'm chanting but I like it. There's a man at my hostel who says I shouldn't trust it and that I'm probably chanting for an evil spirit to come and curse me. Thanks for your vote of confidence! After chanting, I stroll over to eco-cafe, which true to its advertising is actually in a leafy garden and is situated next to a great clothing store!

Chennai is home for the moment and maybe for the next month. I plan to take some yoga classes of the type I was practicing in Atlanta and travel to nearby towns and ashrams. Last weekend I planned to go to Mamallapuram. But before I could make it to the bus, I met my shopping match. I ditched Mamallapuram and headed to the mall. The rickshaw driver got lost and wanted us to pay more. In the quarrel I left my back pack packed for a weekend get-away in the rickshaw. I was just thinking I had too much stuff. I embraced the loss as an excuse to let lose at the mall. I bought my first 3 piece Indian outfit (pants, shirt, and scarf). By the time I finished the tiny coffee the saleswoman brought me, the store tailor had added darts to the shirt and shaped it to fit me. It was amazing. Indian women are always dressed to a T with completely coordinated outfits. I look like a total scrub in my mismatched, hodge-podge of Indian clothing. However, I am working just as hard on that as I am on my yoga.

Happy Birthday to Me!

I am having a wonderful 28th birthday! I've been hanging out with Cate and I swear we were friends in a past life. It's like seeing an old friend after a few years. We just have a lot to catch up on. She is studying and working here to build peace in situations of religious conflict. I went to a Women's Lucky Jewelry meeting, a Muslim and Hindu handicraft business that creates and sells beautiful pearl jewelry. Cate is helping them create and grow their business through microfinancing. (If you're in Atlanta and interested in purchasing some of their jewelry, let me know.) It was so wonderful to meet the dedicated women and see how far they have come. Then Cate and I went to the lake to see the largest free-standing Buddha statue. Cate took me out to Paradise, where the Prime Minister eats when he comes to Hyderabad, and gave me my own pearl necklace and earrings. They are gorgeous! And this morning I had a piece of chocolate birthday cake:) My birthday has been filled with wonderful friendship, inspiration from women entrepeneurs, good Indian food, and jewelry. It's been a great way to start a new year!

Om

I enrolled in a 10 day vipassana meditation course in Hyderabad not know quite what to expect. There was no talking, no reading, no writing, not even any looking at anyone. And that was the easy part! The hard part was sitting on a cushion over 10 hours a day trying to tame the mind. My legs were killing me. Check out this schedule:
4:00 a.m. Wake up!
4:30-6:30 Meditate (2 hours)
6:30-8:00 Breakfast and break (When you're taking a morning nap at 7:15, you know things can't be good.)
8:00-11:00 Meditate (3 hours)
11:00-1:00 Lunch and break
1:00-5:00 Meditate (4 hours)
5:00-6:00 Snack and break (Notice how there's not any dinner.)
6:00-9:00 Meditate (3 hours)
9:00 Bedtime
It was grueling. And as if meditating 12 hours a day wasn't enough, they told to meditate even during the breaks, as we were walking, as we were washing clothes, as we were eating. Even the moments of comedic relief couldn't be shared. There were the loudest burps and farts coming from the men's side of the meditation hall. It would be completely silently (except for the woodpecker outside), and then someone would just let it rip. I wanted to bust out laughing and wished someone I knew was there to hear it too. Then there was the night a bird pooped on my head. I swear the bird had diarhhea. I busted out laughing on the inside, but on the outside I just quietly went to the bathroom to wash it off. There were no tissues, napkins, toilet paper, or paper cups. Not a single paper product for 10 days. Being there I realized how much paper we use in the US.
There were plenty of times I thought about leaving. My roommate left on day 7. I'm glad I stuck it out. At the end of it, I was sooooo happy. Not because I felt all peaceful inside but because I could talk and didn't have to meditate anymore. In fact, I wasn't sure at that point if I ever wanted to meditate again! But I have and I do feel much calmer and relaxed having finished the course.

Happy Valentine's to All

I arrived in Hyderabad on Valentines Day. I met up with Cate, a friend of a friend, who made me feel right at home. We shared a lovely evening eating dinner at Subway and watching Beowolf in 3D at the Imax. It was quite an experience. I hope you all had a happy, happy v-day!

Milk Snakes and Hello to the Quin

I left Goa to head to the hills. I met my new best friend, Stuart, on the way and we were pretty much inseperable the entire time. We spent our days

• being in pictures with locals and telling kids over and over again where we were from and what our good names were


• staying cool by eating Hello to the Quin (ice cream with cookie crumbs, chocolate syrup, and banana...yummy)


• climbing over massive boulders


• bike riding from temple to temple


• taking loads and loads of videos and pictures


• admiring Lakshmi the holy elephant be bathed, be made up with make-up, & give blessings


• getting lost and roaming around with the goats desparately trying to find a way to cross the river


• watching cows roam through the trash


• plotting how Stuart can drive a tuc-tuc back in England


• and drinking tea and enjoying big meals at Raju's Rooftop Restaurant.

It was such a relaxing week and it actually rained, the first rain I've seen in India! Last but not least I took my first yoga course which was the whole reason I came to India.

Carnaval Indian Style

At the dinner party on Friday night, I met a man who could not understand how I could not have a plan. He graciously called his friend living in Goa and asked him to make arrangements for me. I didn't realize Goa was such a popular destination for Carnaval. After an overnight train (perhaps the best sleep I've gotten in India so far), I landed in a house with a pool. It's beautiful! I don't know how I lucked out. I also arrived just in time for the last Carnaval parade. It was quite a scene, but I must say the crowd was really tame, not even heads were nodding to the beat.

Bombay

Mumbai is completely crazy with the traffic, tons of people, noise, smells, and colors but it's also very fun. I toured around Elephant Island on Friday and met a sweet British couple traveling for 6 weeks for their honeymoon. That night I hopped on another boat for a dinner and dance party with Kiran and her husband and friend. The food was delish, and it was fun to watch everyone try to balance themselves on the boat and dance at the same time.

The next day I joined a friend of a friend of a friend of a friend, Phil, for some more site-seeing. I probably would have suggested walking around the city and a museum but he suggested seeing some caves and hiking to a fort in a small town 2 hours outside Mumbai. We went with that. It was definitely adventure, and I'd say we were more the attraction than anything else. There were groups of kids on field trips at the caves. They all wanted to take pictures with us. It was really cute. The caves were cool too. I can't tell you how the fort was because we never made it. Phil used to lead outdoor expeditions, so we opted for making our own trail up to the fort rather than following the road. Although it was a blast trailblazing up the mountain, we had to turn around to catch the last train back to Mumbai, well what the book said was the last train back to Mumbai.

Then Sunday was a day of extremes. First Phil and I went on a tour of a slum. It was tough but so interesting. The people who live there are such hardworkers. They recycle plastic, sew clothes, make laptop bags, make pottery, and bake bread for minimal wages (a dollar or two a day). A family may make $1200 a year. We saw their homes and went through the windy, crowded alley ways between houses. We visited one home for at least 5 people. It was about 6 feet by 20 feet. There was only room for a counter to cook, a dresser and some floor space to sleep, but it was so colorful, tidy and inviting. The money we paid for the tour went to support a center for children that teaches English. They have 50 students enrolled and 80 on the waiting list.

After the Reality Tour, I went to the see-and-be-seen Indian Dirby, like the Kentucky Dirby of India. I went with friends of friends from the states who are living in Bombay. I had a blast and it was so fun to have a peek in to the expat life. I only saw two sun hats but people were decked out. The weather was perfect which actually allowed for a good view of the city. Tomorrow I'm off to Goa, I think!

Neither here nor there

Ah! I'm in a totally new country with absolutely no plan!!! I jumped to the closest big city, Mumbai/Bombay. As I stepped off the train in Mumbai, I felt this intense excitement to be in Mumbai and at the very same time an intense desire to go home. I don't know how it's possible to feel both, but I did. Like it just dawned on me that I hadn't been home in two months. Since going home was not a convenient option, I focused on the excitement of being in a new city.

Luckily Aabir, a friend from back home, who is apparently very well connected in India, put me in touch with some of his friends. Aabir, you're such a life saver! I've already met one of his lovely friend's, Kiran. We had coffee together today. She helped me plan out the next few days here and point me in the right direction for some new clothes. I can't thank either of them enough! I don't know what I would have done without their help.

Sickie

It took me a few days to realize, I am sick with a cold. I usually attribute the lead-weight feeling when I go to get out of bed to constantly being on the go, being alone and culture shock/language barriers (even crossing the street is an adventure). But this time that unstoppable urge to climb back into bed is because I'm sick. I've been sneezing and coughing for days and just now remembered I'm carrying a small pharmacy in my back pack, and there are ayruvedic care centers on every other corner.

Change of plans

Elizabeth Gilbert, author of Eat Pray Love, inspired me to spend three months in India working, learning and meditating at an ashram. I applied to the OSHO Meditation Resort in Pune and was accepted for a 3 month program. After a few days in Pune, I decided OSHO wasn't the best fit for me. So now I have three months to play! Back to the drawing board.

Being around the ashram was fun. I met lots of interesting people. Here quitting your job to travel or move to another country is the norm. Every other person either doesn't know what they are going to do or is a massage therapist. If they're not a massage therapist, they do feng shui or paint mandolins. It's so much fun to meet people who are on a spiritual journey or are in a similar stage of "what should I do with my life."

Taking the long way

I left Rio on January 21st and arrived in Pune, India on the 24th. I'm not really sure where all those days went. I had a long layover in Madrid, which was nice to visit my old stomping grounds. I think I ate the entire day. I've been missing Spanish food. Then I flew to London and the next plane was delayed. Once I arrived in Delhi at 2:30 in the morning, I waited for another 7 hours to fly to Pune.

Adios Sur America

IMG_0729, originally uploaded by cbern18.

Well, my time in South America is almost over. I'm not even sure how I chose to come here. I pulled it out of thin air but I am so glad I came and look forward to returning. I only really saw two (Peru and Colombia) or the original six countries I thought I would visit. This continent is a little bigger than I imagined! Just means I'll be back again.

My intention in South America was to get back to nature and relax. Mission accomplished! In the jungles of Colombia, I could recognize the plants and animals I learned about in Peru. I used my first pair of hiking boots on the Inca Trail and it turns out with the right shoes and a porter, I like hiking. I camped for three nights on the trail and then spent eight days in the Amazon jungle. I would have considered it mission accomplished after Peru but in Colombia, I spent even more time outdoors. Hiking and swimming with Max's family was so refreshing. And I hope I can spend every New Year's Day out in the middle of a gorgeous river in the jungle with good friends, like I started 2008. Then I hit the beach in Cartagena and Parque Tayrona. The ocean was so gorgeous and so relaxing. Coming back from the park was like coming out of a dream.

Not only did I fulfill my purpose but I learned so much more. I loved learning about the Incas in Peru. I really like traveling alone but at times I also really hate it. It's been difficult to get in the groove at times but the hard times never last long. It's been scary not know what the hell I'm doing and not speaking the language that well. But it's been good to push past the fear and do it anyway. It's been great to listen to my body and create my own path. I've loved meeting people from all over the world. I've learned so much about other countries and different walks of life. It's also been humbling, saying the wrong things and having to rely on so many people. But overall I'm so happy and grateful that everything went so smoothly. I never imagined it would be this much fun! It's hard to leave South America but I'm looking forward to the next leg of the journey.

Rio Round II

IMG_0752, originally uploaded by cbern18.

It was nice to start and end my South American journey in Rio with Freddy. We've known each other since I was a wee freshman in high school so it's always great to catch up, hang out and party together. On Friday when I arrived, Freddy was at work. It was so nice to have my own, modern, clean space after camping and staying in hostels. Once Freddy got home we decided to have a chill evening. However, when he got out of the shower, he was like a new person. He said to hell with it, I was only in Rio for the weekend. We should take advantage of it. Our first stop was Porcao (not sure how to spell that), which is a restaurant where they bring big skewers of meat to your table and an all you can eat salad bar. The beef was so delicious. It really melted in your mouth. Then we met up with Freddy's friend, Max, at a bar near their houses. After a few drinks we headed to another bar with live music on the first floor and dancing on the second. The music was great and it was so much fun to dance. I was shocked at how the Brazilians are making out all over the place. It was a bit rude how much I was staring but I just couldn't help myself.

The next morning, we met up with another of Fred's friends, Neil, and headed up to the Christ and the Sugar Loaf. We had gorgeous weather and a nice relaxing time at each. After a long, deep nap, I rallied to go out to dinner and we called it an early night. The next day we took it easy, rode bikes around the lagoa and ate at this incredible restaurant in a beautiful park. The building used to be a palace for a Portuguese king but now it is a cultural center and restaurant. It was great to get some veggies after a meat filled weekend. And that night, we had delicious sushi, which I had been craving since I left Brazil two months earlier. I had a blast with Freddy and it was hard to leave!

Parque Tayrona

I had to tear myself away from Cartagena because I heard that Parque Tayrona was worth a visit. It's a national park along the Caribbean coast. The rumors are true; it's gorgeous.

Once I got to Santa Marta (the jumping off point for the park), I was taking my time making plans and packing. When I was finally ready to go, I heard that Osvaldo, a taxi driver, was already taking Tim, Nico, and Paola to the park, so I eagerly joined them, and it's a good thing I did. Osvaldo's 30-year-old taxi made it to the park where we hiked to a campsite that rented hammocks and had a restaurant, because needless to say I had some clothes and a candy bar and that was it. Well, once we arrived at Cabo (the campsite on the beach), the authorities informed us it was full. It was getting dark and the camps were filling up, so Tim lead us to a beach he had seen a few days earlier. We were the only ones and it was beautiful. Luckily Tim had a seemingly bottomless bag with unlimited camping supplies and Nico and Paola had actually prepared and had some food. After dinner, which consisted of a few bites of tuna and crackers, it was so nice to be able to jump into the Caribbean. I slept on the sand under a mosquito net gazing at the stars. It was a very magical (and cold) experience. The next morning, the first thing I did was go for another swim. It's such a luxury to wake up on the beach 5 feet from the warm, clear ocean. After a swim we searched out food. I found myself at a bakery on the beach eating pan de chocolate. Yum. Nico and Paola stayed at a beach nearby while Tim and I hiked to Playa Brava. What an adventure! First we hiked out of the park and took a taxi to another entrance. Then we hiked 3 hours in the blazing sun up and over a small mountain. Luckily Tim is a more positive person than most and we arrived exhausted but happy. Playa Brava was worth the hike. It's an ecological reserve without electricity but with running spring water. It has about six cabanas and a private beach. So actually even though sleeping on the sand next to the beach is nice, sleeping in a hammock in a cabana next to the beach is even better. There were four people from Spain staying there when we arrived. They were so sweet and very fun. Tim and I stayed longer than planned but he kept pulling food out of his bottomless bag. Finally when it ran out, we ate fresh fish from the sea and coconuts from the trees. We had a blast on the beach and also hiking to the waterfall nearby, which was supposedly started when 2 indigenous people, a man and a woman, clicked two rocks together. Actually, Jorge, who runs the place, is buying up land along the coast to eventually give it back to the indigenous people who lived there before it was a national park. I was amazed at the altruism of Jorge. I guess if you want something done right, you really do have to do it yourself.

After our arduous hike to Playa Brava, we returned on horseback. Well, really I was on a mule, a really stubborn one. Even though I'm more sore from riding the mule than hiking, it was worth it. Coming back to Santa Marta was like coming back to reality. Playa Brava and Parque Tayrona really were a paradise. Even though as a vagabond, I'm always coming and going, this time it really felt like I had been away from the world.

Ciudad Vieja

I spent my last day in Cartagena wandering around the Old City. The buildings are all colorfully painted and bougainvillea hangs over the balconies. It's like taking a step back in time. The breeze made sitting on a cafe patio and people watching perfect. Mime and dance performers popped up here and there. It was wonderful to get a free show. Despite all the beauty, the best part of the day might have been that i actually made it out that night with Amy, Gil and Martin. We went to Café Havana right around the corner from our hotels. The itty bitty waitress could not get over the fact that Martin was 6'8 and catered to his every need. It was quite sweet. Amy kept the beat with her new little shakers sold by a lively guy making his way around the bars. The music was great and I had a blast. I should get out more often.

Islas de Rosarios and Playa Blanca

After the day at the beach, I took a tour to Islas de Rosario and Playa Blanca. i spent the day with Alex and Marta, a couple from Colombia. We hada great time at the Oceanario where they have an aquarium made by dividing sections of the ocean into habitats for the animals. We saw tons of sharks, sting rays, and dolphins. It was awesome. the we headed over to Playa Blanca for lunch and more sun. The water was so beautiful. it was clear and calm. We took a nice swim out to the boat and back.

Cartagena

Cartagena! it's so beautiful. it reminds me a little bit of Cuba. Even the sketchy area where I'm staying is adorable. The streets are lined with colorfu buildings. When I peak inside, the rooms are empty except for some placstic chairs and a hammock but the people are chatting and eating together.

I acutally am staying a day longer than planned because I still haven't seen the Old City, which is the main attraction. The first day, I went door-to-door trying to find a cheap place to stay. It's peak season here and rooms are hard to come by. Then I headed to the beach with a couple from San Francisco (Amy and Gill) and a couple from Bogotá (Carolina and Cameron). We rented a little carpa (tent) on the beach and were swarmed by vendors selling everything from sunglasses to food to cell phone minutes. Carolina taught us how to politely say no. The weather was absolutely perfect and the water was warm and the people watching was excellent. After a day at the beach we headed into the Old City for a quick drink.

Freedom

I realize thus far I've written about notheing except myself, well, and maybe the food. But now it's time for a little politics. Two of the women kidnapped by the FARC 8 years ago (I think) were released. It was so emotional. I don't know much about Colombian politics, but I can't imagine what these women have been through, and what the other hostages are still going through. One of the women will be reunited with her son, Emanuel, whos was given away by the FARC two and a half years ago (he's now three and a half years old).

I was eating lunch with a Carolina and Cameron (a couple from Bogotá that I met in Cartagena) watching as the women were reunited with their families, including a grandchild she didn't know existed. It was tear jerking. And it's hopeful. It's amazing to be in Colombia. Uribe, the current president, has made incredible progress. I can't imagine growing up with so much violence and civil war, but i am inspired by and in awe of all the changes I've heard about and how much safer it seems.

Accommodations

It happened. I got lonely. So I had three candy bars for dinner and bought a new swim suit. After my dad's visit, I had Tiffany's to look forward to. But now that she's gone, it's lonely. I have to readjust to traveling by myself. Well, maybe it's just to the dingy-ness of hostels. When I was at the lovely Casa Relax B&B, I was a happy camper. It had a parrot, a pretty pool, a yummy breakfast, trendy rooms, and hammocks. Now that I'm at Hotel Española (see picture), I'm having adjustment issues. The shower is a pipe sticking out of the wall and the lock is a padlock. I feel a bit like I'm sleeping in a locker. But despite the fact that rope is holding the bed together, last night, there were some guys in the hallway playing the guitar and sining quite pleasantly. And I could hear the men trying to teach each other to dance. It actually wasn't a bad way to fall asleep. The room has a place to lie down, a working toilet and a fan. I guess that's all I really need.

Food

I´ve ventured into street food. So far I´ve had a very flavorful beef kabob with very flavorful baked potatoes on either end. And a bag of sliced mango with salt and orange lime (it´s a fruit that is a cross between an orange and a lime). Delicious! Apparently there are a zillion different breads in Colombia, all very tasty. I especially love the cheese bread. And I´ve made sure to sample all the sodas and candy bars. Most recently I had a Jumbo X-treme, which was not jumbo and stated extremely like cardboard. Jet candy bars have all been delicious. If those aren´t sweet enough for you, you can finish it off with an ultra sweet pink soda, Postobon or Colombiana. (I´d go for the Colombiana.) I´ve also tried to have the typical plates from each region I´ve been to. The first day I got to Colombia, Max took me out to lunch. I opted for the trypical plate, bandeja paisajo, which contains no less than five kinds of meat and sausage, a fried egg, rice, beans, plantains and an avocado. I ate almost the entire thing. Max´s family is in shock (and maybe a little disgusted) that I lived to tell about it. Well, this little food monolougue wouldn´t be complete without mentioning the delicious juices. Every morning at Max´s house, we´d awake to freshly squeezed OJ. My mouth waters just thinking about it. We ate like royalty at Max´s house for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Ah, I miss that!

¡Que chevere!

IMG_0509, originally uploaded by cbern18.

Tiffany has decided that Colombia wins the prize for the best Christmas decorations, and I have to agree. Everywhere we´ve been has been decked out. At night everything is lit up. This star was at the T in Bogotá, a neighborhood with restaurants and bars. We had great stir fry here at Wok. Then we walked around Parque 93 which had a replica of Bethleham and a huge Christmas tree, with a B on top for Berni.

Max´s aunt and uncle graciously offered to let us stay at their apartment in Bogotá. It was beautiful and super close to Exito, the Target of Colombia. Of course I had to go and it was well worth it. After picking up a few things there, Tiffany, Max and I explored the city. Max was a wonderful tour guide. We saw his university, Candelaria (a cute little neighborhood), the Gold Museum, the Botero Museum, and Monseratt (a church on a mountain where you take a cable car to the top and have great views of the city). For being there less than 48 hours, we saw tons!

¡Ay, que bonita es esta vida!

Ah, it´s so wonderful to see familiar faces. It´s been such a blast hanging out with Tiffany and Max. We´ve already been to Medellín, Bogotá, Cisneros and Caracoli (try to find that on a map!). In Caracoli we went rafting, which included lunch at this little restaurant in this little town in the middle of nowhere, but this nowhere was really beautiful. After I finished eating lunch, Max´s sister proceded to tell me how sick I was going to get from eating at this restaurant. Then we tried to organize 22 of Max´s family members and 2 gringas into 3 rafts and a kayak, which you can imagine how long that took. Just as we hit the water, these kids starting throwing rocks at us. Luckily no one was hurt. The rafting was great. Despite the water being full of vitimina-M (mierda), the scenery was gorgeous: gigantic trees, tropical flowers, and cool rocks. We had a guide, but after we crashed into a rock, Max did most of the stearing. Another boat also had a slight mis-hap and got a huge tear in the bottom of it. To get back to the starting point we road on these little carts on the old train track. The carts were powered by old motorcycles. It was awesome riding in the front through the jungle, wind blowing through my hair. It´s just so beautiful here.